Hi Mum, I’m in Mongolia


It was as we were in the middle of our 30 hour train ride from Beijing to Ulaan Baator, that I started to get a feel for what we might be in for. We had reached the emptiness that starts not too far north of Beijing when the dust started pouring in through any and all opening in the carriage – fine, coating dust that got into everything and didn’t really leave us until we reached Irkutsk. Photographs cannot do justice to the scale of the place and the sheer impenetrable vastness of it. It makes Australia seem densely populated. We’ve only uploaded a few photos of our time in Mongolia, but we’ll be uploading more once we hit London. Please check back for them.


We arrived in UB, which is possibly one of the world’s ugliest capital cities, and dumped our bags at our hostel. The hostel was located in a soviet-style apartment block and was stiflingly hot (apparently all heaters in UB are turned off on a designated day in May, regardless of the temperatures). After dumping our bags, we spent the next hour trying to find an office about 200 metres from our hostel – the UB government has decided that numbers on buildings and houses pose too great a threat to nomadic sensibilities or national security, or something of the kind. Eventually, we made to the office for our one hour of orientation before spending the next week on our own with nomadic families. The rest of the day left us with enough time to drink too much at the KhanBrau Brauhaus with some people we’d met on the train.

That evening, they were running a ‘beer market’ where the price of various beers fluctuated on the basis of demand. The pilsner was obviously unpopular with the locals that night, as it was selling for about a dollar a pint. Needless to say, there was substantial foreign investment in the market that evening. The next morning, sporting mild hangovers, we boarded the local bus for a 300km ride into the heart of Mongolia. At times, the bus ride degenerated into an off-road adventure for the stretches where the only non-international paved road in the country disappeared, but we arrived safely in what seemed like the middle of nowhere (compared with UB) and then were taken even further into the middle of nowhere to meet our first family.


Having been left on our own with our hosts for the entire week, we communicated as best we could, which was not very well at all – we had a total of 10 minutes language training and a guidebook to help us. Still, we managed to communicate at a very basic level and avoid any major embarassment or offence (at least, I think we did).


Not long after arriving at the first ger, we were treated to our first taste of traditional Mongolian nomadic fare – which comprised dried mutton, carrot, potatoes, flour, salt and MSG. Having been warned about the dire nature of the local food I was expecting the worst, but actually found this to be relatively palatable. It was only after we were treated to this same combination for 7 straight meals that we realised why Mongolian food has such a reputation for monotony – and we still had eight of the same meals to go. By the fourth day, our favourite game was “What would you eat if you were at home right now?”. Oh, and did I mention that we went almost a whole week without alcohol? Be proud of us folks.


Another highlight of our time amongst the nomads was our mode of travel.

The first day we spent with our family, we were to travel to a local sacred site on their camels. These were the most recalcitrant, uncomfortable animals ever to be conceived of. We travelled about 40km in three days on these creatures and if i never have to travel by camel again, it will be too soon. Our arses have only just recovered from the insult.


Even our guide preferred to travel by foot most of the way. For the rest of the time with our nomadic hosts, we travelled by horse. It was during this time that I understood why Mongol horsemen have the reputation they do throughout Asia. These guys are born on horses and commune with their animals in a way that was completely foreign to us. After a couple of days of having our butts pounded by the iron rings set into the saddles, we were quite happy to walk the few kilometres each way to our final sight – a local buddhist monastery located in a nearby valley.


With all the bashing of our experience with these families, we actually do them a huge injustice. Amanda and I actually thoroughly enjoyed our week amongst the Bulgan nomads, and developed a deep respect for the way these people live and an appreciation for how easy we have it at home. These nomadic herders live an extremely difficult and austere existence (mobile phones and satellite TV notwithstanding) and it’s hard to imagine packing your whole live into a 5m wide felt tent, spending most of your day inside for 8 months of the year and praying that your flock survive the worst that the Mongolian climate can throw at them. However, these families have done it for generations with a smile and, from what we can gather, a great sense of pride in their traditions. It’s impossible to capture the inhospitable and vast landscape in which the nomads ply their trade, and I can only encourage you to get to Mongolia and see it for yourself while it still exists.




Hi Mum, I’m in Chengdu (and Xi’an)

Oh Chengdu, you were the shining light in our itinerary. We had spent many happy hours speculating about what a giant Dainty Sichuan restaurant you were going to be. So why the fuck did I get gastro there the day I arrived!? It’s not fair.

We arrived in Chengdu in the morning, after two days spent on the train and were both eager to hunt down some ma la (that’s the signature Sichuanese combination of hot and numbing) food. We even went so far as to walk in to a local Carrefour and inhale over the huge mounds of Sichuan pepper sitting there. It’s a bit sad I know, but all our fellow Dainty Sichuan devotees/junkies will understand. That night, we had planned to meet up with a Canadian girl, living in Chengdu, who writes a blog on local food and go out for a mouth-numbing and ring-of-fire inducing hot pot. Sadly for me, it wasn’t to be. I’d begun a to feel a bit off colour during the afternoon and tried napping it off, but by the time we were walking across town to the restaurant things were looking bad. We arrived at the restaurant, and as much as I really, really, really wanted to want to eat, the overpowering smells of chilli, pepper and meat made my stomach turn in an ominous way. So I headed for the safety of bed with its proximal porcelain. Apparently the hot pot was amazing. So it goes. I should add that I did get to try the hot pot on our last night in Chengdu, and it was amazing. Hot to the point of chilli sweats and disconcertingly numbing, but a simmering pot of gold that makes everything that goes in come out delicious.


By the afternoon of the next day, I was prepared to face the strenuous activities on offer at the Wenshu Monastery and, more specifically, its teahouse. These included: drinking tea, having your teacup refilled, drinking tea and watching old people playing cards, drinking tea and having their ears cleaned by roving excavators. The pace of life in Chengdu, while a big city (about 11m people), is very laid back and this place was typical of that – people just seem to spend their days hanging out. It was the perfect place to convalesce.


That night, I was ready for some good local cuisine. We asked the girls at the hostel where we could get some good ma po doufu – one of our Dainty favourites and usually a good source of chilli and Sichuan pepper. They recommended the place down the road and we arrived with high hopes. We ordered the ma po along with some fish-flavoured eggplant and were disappointed to find a lack of heat in both dishes. Something was wrong. We later realised that we’d forgotten to specify that we wanted the dishes spicy – the default position at restaurants in Asia is to remove all traces of chilli whenever they see a white face. This was a mistake we didn’t repeat.


Our third day, we were off to see Chengdu’s other tourist attraction – Pandas (aka China’s diplomatic weapon of choice). There isn’t much to say about them except for the fact that they’re incredibly cute. I think the photos say it best. We were lucky that we arrived early, as got to see the pandas in action and they tend to spend the rest of the day asleep after consuming their body weight in bamboo.


That afternoon, we had another crack at getting some good food into us, and we hit the jackpot, using our Dainty Sichuan menu as an aid to my rudimentary Chinese. The result was three dishes that were hot, numbing and oh so delicious. I could go on and on about how good they were, but that would be cruel. Feeling smug with our discovery, we headed back to our hostel to sleep off our food babies, but our joy was short lived. Amanda had started to feel a bit off colour. So began another round of bed rest and tea house convalescence.


Our combined days laid up in bed and our tender stomachs put paid to our plans to both eat obscene amounts of Sichuanese food and also to visit the nearby town of Langzhong, but that’s the way things go. The food we did try fell both sides of the benchmark set by our beloved Dainty Sichuan – I have to say that while the Melbourne version holds up pretty well againt its Chengdu counterparts, the local version still wins by a few lengths. Chengdu also boasts a few “Sichuanified” snacks that I wish we could get at home. The first is Lay’s “Numb & Spicy Hot Pot Flavor” chips. These bags of awesomeness are seriously addictive and do an impressive rendition of the actual hot pot taste. If you ever see them, buy them. The second was McDonalds’ “ma la chicken burger”. We had to try this burger (for research purposes only, of course). And you should feel lucky that we tried it so that you don’t have to. The burger does have some hot and numbing flavour, but it tasted really artificial and came with the latent regret that only McDonalds can deliver.


Having done Chengdu, we decided to make a 36-hour stopover in Xi’an on our way through to Beijing. Xi’an was a whirlwind stop of delicious muslim Chinese food, a drunken evening out with the population of our hostel making dumplings and visiting a local nightclub, and a hungover trip out to the terracotta warriors. The excavated warriors were an awe-inspiring sight, even through our whisky haze, and were our first taste of the massive scale on which Chinese imperial monuments are constructed. If we’d known how much we would enjoy Xi’an, we probably would have spent an extra couple of days there; however, as we were getting toward the big May Day holidays, we needed to book all our travel in advance. Oh well, there’s always next time…



Hi Mum, I’m still on the road

While in Vietnam, we had decided to change our plans slightly and break up our trip from Hanoi to Kunming by spending a couple of days in the old French hill station of Sapa. We took the overnight train and bought a ticket for a taxi up to the town from an official-looking vendor at the station. That was the point at which, unfortunately, we were scammed for the first time on our trip (that we know of…). We arrived in Sapa tired and ready for breakfast and a shower. Instead, we got a taxi driver wielding a metal bar at us and demanding payment a second time – claiming that the ticket we bought was not the right one even though the company we bought the ticket off had put us in his taxi. We were in no mood for bullshit and stood our ground until the owner of the hotel that ran the service gave him his money. Sapa was putting on its best for us. The town itself is a nice enough place with an alpine feel, though it seems to be in the middle of a construction boom and will soon probably be a concrete jungle at altitude. There is also the momentarily charming presence of ladies in traditional hilltribe dress scattered throughout the town. However, we soon discovered that they are just there to sell hilltribe handicrafts and trinkets to passing tourists, or to descend on tourists having a meal, or to follow them from one end of the town to the other and back again (this is no exaggeration) in the hope that you will buy something. Unfortunately for them, we were more stubborn than them and left Sapa without any hilltribe goods.

After a few lazy days in Sapa we descended the mountain, passing through dense fog and bright sunshine on the way down, and got dropped off at what purported to be a travel agent. This was where we were to meet a woman who would ‘help us’ across the border into China. Mostly, her help consisted of tottering along in high heels, ignoring us, crossing the road unexpectedly and making us lurch after her, instructing us to fill in departure cards that we already had, and pointing usefully at the signs marked ‘Immigration’. We don’t think we paid any extra for this service – thank goodness.

After having heard some stories about power-happy border officials, we were happy to face nothing more complicated than a few ‘Welcome to China’s and a quick zap of our foreheads to make sure we weren’t bringing H1N1 into the country. Alex’s first encounter with Chinese citizens in China itself was coming face to face with a tiny, wide-eyed toddler who, clearly awestruck, wandered over to shake his hand. His mother burst into laughter when we tried out a ‘Ni hao’ and smiled broadly. As we left the buidling, another, grandmotherly type patted the top of her head and then gestured at the top of Alex’s and exclaimed something like ‘So tall!’ Alex’s adventures as a 6ft3 Scandi bearded giant in China had begun.

We found our bus to Kunming and settled in, but not before encountering our first Chinese toilets. I know bus station toilets are never going to be the most sanitary, but I can’t go into any detail about the ghastliness of this one without losing the entirety of our loyal readership. I can reveal, however, that the loo in the middle of nowhere, mid-bus ride, outstripped the first in horrendousness. I could barely believe it.

Anyway, Kunming. We spent a night here, marking time before we could head out. In our experience it seems to be a relative upstart in terms of cities, rich-looking and full of neon and 6-lane streets. Not particularly charming.

We eagerly headed out on an overnight train to Dali. We had a full day to spend in this small town situated between Erhai lake and the impressive Cangshan mountain range. As with many Chinese towns, it’s neatly divided into ‘new town’ and ‘old town’ and we spent the day wandering the streets of the old town. It’s quite delightful, with small streams running down through the streets and plenty of ‘old’ houses (the more we travel in China and see its ‘Disney-fication’ the more skeptical we grow about the real age of these buildings). And finally, after eating some pretty average food in Kunming, we found some delicious food in Dali. First, some light-as-a-feather small steamed buns as an early breakfast, followed up by freshly made guo kuai, a fried and baked cakey flatbread that was crispy, warm, sweet, savoury and dense all at the same time. A bargain for about 20c. Later on, we had lunch at a hole-in-the-wall eatery that was filled with 11-year-old schoolgirls, who giggled and stared as Alex bumped his head on the ceiling. The proprietor served up a warming bowl of chewy wheat noodles in a slightly chili-hot broth, topped with what tasted like a rich pork ragout. After all the eating, we spent the afternoon walking, and then sitting by the stream on a garish pink couch, drinking endless cups of green tea. How very Chinese.

That evening we were collected by our host for the next few days, an English teacher who has opened up his home near Shaxi, in small-town Yunnan province, as a homestay. We were anticipating 3-4 days of experiencing relatively authentic Chinese homelife, with perhaps a bit of hiking. Instead, although the accommodation was pretty impressive (a converted Chinese theatre), the host had decided to accept our cooking for accommodation while also doing extensive work to the courtyard, so that we awoke to the sound of angle grinders and shouting. Moreover, the host was barely around and we spent a few aimless hours trying to find somewhere that might sell us lunch. Add to this some mild altitude sickness (for Amanda) that put paid to the idea of hiking the hills, and an influx of flies in our room that required an amusing (if grotesque) Insect Armageddon before retiring for the night, and we decided to head off distinctly earlier than planned.

Given a few extra days in our schedule, we decided to head to Lijiang, further up towards the Burmese/Tibetan border (although of course one must be careful around here when referruing to any kind of legal delimitation between China and its "components", Tibet and Taiwan). Lijiang seems to be relatively well off the Western tourist trail in China (although this still means plenty of Westeners get there) but is Big News in terms of the Chinese domestic tourist trade. It’s known colloqiually as the ‘Venice of China’ and the old town really is a most attractive mess of winding walking streets, rivers, streams and bridges (great fun to wander round until you actually want to find something). However, like Venice, these streets are mostly thronging with tourists and filled with wall-to-wall tourist trade – scarf weavers, leatherworkers, bars and restaurants (which mostly serve some pretty dire and oil-drenched food), dismal ‘trinket’ shops, frangrant shops selling delicious dried and flavoured yak meat, and silversmiths. Amusingly, the silver shops all had men sitting out on the stoop, beating a bar of silver to prove that they made eveything inhouse. Of course, they just seemed to beat the same piece of silver every day, making it into nothing more dramatic than a slightly longer bar.

During our couple of days in Lijiang, we were as much a part of the tourist scenery as the bridges and buildings. Stopping for a beer during the afternoon, we noticed at least a dozen tourists taking photos us. Some were more subtle than others, but it was an amusing game for an hour or so to bust them and enjoy their sheepish grins. On one occasion, we were stopped by a couple who wanted their photo taken. Initially we thought we were to be the photographers, but we soon discovered that the guy wanted his photo taken next to the giant lao wai (Amanda was not required). Finally, we were accosted by an English teacher and his school group in order for his students to get some conversation practice. Unfortunately, they were all to shy to talk so we ended up having a chat with their teacher and posing for more photographs. We thought that our high curiosity value to the locals was relatively unusual, mostly based on Alex’s height (and hairiness?), but just yesterday here in Chengdu we saw a list of ‘Civilised Tourist Behaviour’ rules that included revolutionary ideas such as ‘Don’t take photos of foreigners’ along with ‘Resist superstition’ and ‘Don’t spit’. We’ll believe it when we see it.

Hi Mum, I’m in Hanoi

After another overnight train trip, we arrived in Hanoi smelly and tired. Not the most ideal way to get your first taste of a city, so it’s a credit to Hanoi that we immediately warmed to it.


We first walked around the large central Hoan Kiem lake, watching the (mainly) elderly citizens of the city exercising. Most of them seemed to be doing variations of Tai Chi, but some seemed to be just flailing their limbs about madly and looking pleased with themselves.

We retired to a side street for a cafe sua da (strong Vietnamese coffee, over ice and served with condensed milk) and watching the street come alive. A hole in the wall across the street was doing a brisk trade in morning soup, so we fell into line and grabbed a (tiny) stool. Other people seemed to be served up a soup of noodles, broth, some kind of poultry, bamboo and a chunk of blood, but as Westerners we were denied this last. I was secretly thankful. Afterwards we worked out that the delicious meat was actually swan. I barely need say that it tastes of chicken.

By this stage it was not yet 8am and we couldn’t check in until midday. Clearly, some kind of sightseeing was in order.

We headed to the ‘Hanoi Hilton’, a prison in Hanoi that was originally built by the French to house independence fighters and other rebels. Once the French were expelled, it was used for ordinary criminals, but also famously used to house American fighter pilots shot down during the Vietnam war (including John McCain).

There was a definite skew in the storytelling here. According to the exhibits, all the people imprisoned by the French were noble and wonderful and were subjected to unimaginable horrors by the vicious French. In contrast, the American pilots had a simply wonderful time in the prison (and there are photos and video to prove it!) and really, if it hadn’t been so strongly suggested by their government that they return home to their families after the war, they would have happily stayed there forever.

We also visited the National Museum that morning, and got thoroughly up to date with Vietnamese history and culture up to about 1900. (Did you know the Vietnamese repelled an invasion by the Mongols? Neither did I.) We also visited Ho Cho Minh’s mausoleum and the house where he lived for many years.


I didn’t know too much about HCM, and after visiting this latter site I feel like I know even less. It felt like a Disneyland celebration of HCM – completely lacking in substance or information, and with a purely uncritical eye about the man and his role in Vietnamese history. I came away feeling kind of sorry for the guy – whatever he was like, all the interesting aspects of him have been expunged, and he is now pretty much some kind of saint. Forgive me if I’m skeptical about the reality of that.

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After having fulfilled the ‘culture’ quota of our trip, we spent the rest of our time in Hanoi walking the busy streets of the old town and finding good food.

We visited this place:

It’s apparently run by some kind of Vietnamese celebrity, and is only open in the winter months. This hole in the wall serves precisely three different things – sweet soups made of taro or black sesame, or sweet dumplings filled with either ginger coconut or black sesame, served in a ginger soup. Very Asian takes on sweet flavours, but everything (and especially the dumplings) was delicious. (We know; we sampled the whole menu.)

We also found an alleyway near the market north of the lake which was an embarrassment of delicious food items.

We had some delicious barbecued dishes, and were thrilled to find these gelatinous ‘footballs’, filled either with a pork and mushroom mixture, or a sweet coconut filling. We’ve had something similar at yum cha in Melbourne, but these were freshly made and absolutely yum.

As expected, we had some delicious pho soup for breakfast, served with crunchy doughsticks.

And in the evening we sought out bia hoi establishments. Bia hoi is basically homebrew beer, which is delivered to individual vendors daily in smallish kegs. The price ranges from 4,000-8,000 dong (about 25-50 cents) per glass, and while the quality varies considerably, some of them are very decent. Our favourite place was this bustling bia hoi joint, south of the Opera.

It was pretty big, and humming with an after work crowd. We both attracted plenty of stares, being the only Westerners there, and I attracted even more of them, being the only woman (apart from the waitresses). It was great fun; the waiters bring out enormous trays of glasses of beer, then roam around the place replacing any glasses that are even close to empty, regardless of whether you’ve ordered it or not. It would be criminally easy to get ridiculously drunk here. There was a great convivial atmosphere and some half-decent food, and it was a great night.

After a few days in Hanoi, we did what every single tourist does – we headed out to Halong Bay.

About 3-4 hours out of Hanoi, this huge coastal area filled with dramatic limestone karsts rising out of vivid green/blue water has become a ridiculously popular destination with tourists. Trips to the bay, usually overnight, leave daily, and at least 300 junks cruise the same few areas, crowding into sheltered coves overnight and visiting the same caves during the day. Watching the midday departure and arrival of thousands of tourists being packed onto hundreds of boats is a sight to see.

Alex and I were very keen not to have a horrific trip to Halong, something that seems relatively common, with competition fierce and some providers desperate to cut costs. We did our research and picked a relatively expensive trip that would give us 2 nights on the junk, and a program that took us off the beaten track, to some more remote parts of the bay.

While we had a pretty good time on the tour, it became apparent to us that the tour we had booked and the tour we were getting bore very little resemblance to each other. We had a fun day kayaking around a relatively clean part of the bay, but apart from that the trip was marred by confusion about where we were supposed to be and when. We had also become too used to being our own bosses on the road – the common tour group experience of being ordered to eat now, sleep now, wake up now was anathema to us.

After some stern words to the travel agents upon our return to Hanoi (we can’t, in all honesty, recommend Buffalo Tours) we did manage to recoup half of our costs. On that basis, we have to say that Halong Bay is a spectacular part of the world that is being sadly ruined. If you can, bring your own boat, and get the hell away from everyone else.

Hi Mum, I’m in Hue

Actually, we’re in Kunming at the moment (with a slight backlog of posts). Being in that well-known bastion of free speech, China, we’re also within the warm and protective embrace of the Golden Shield – which means no access to WordPress, Facebook or Twitter. At the moment, Flickr is available, but that is apparently a tenuous status. What this all boils down to is that we’re going to have to post blog entries by email. (Do let us know – by email – if this entry comes out wonky.)

Anyway, back to Hue.

Hue was a few hours by train north of Hoi An, during which we passed some spectacular coastal scenery. We arrived to a wet and miserable city – it was the first real rain we’d encountered on our trip. We had to break the jeans and jumpers in order to go foraging for our favourite thing – food.

Hue used to be the imperial capital under the Nguyen emperors. There are plenty of remnants of their pomp and majesty (more about that later) but in reality they were little more than puppets under the French colonial regime. One of the remnants of their rule is Hue cuisine. It’s said that emperors insisted on extravagant meals of 50 unique courses, with tea brewed from dew collected each morning. Some of the dishes are still widely served in Hue especially banh beo, tiny shallow dishes filled with rice flour jelly (like a thick and glutinous rice noodle) and topped with minced shrimp and a piece of pork crackling. Ladle on a bit of sauce, detach from the saucer, eat it in one bite and move on to the next. Delicious.

Most other Hue food we tried was relatively similar – combinations of thick rice noodle, minced shrimp and some kind of crunchy pork. It wasn’t very fulfilling as a full meal (severe lack of greenery) but wonderful with a bottle of the local beer, Huda. (Another of Hue’s local brews, Festival, is one of the best beers we’ve found in Asia.)

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We had a good spread of such food at Lac Thien, a stalwart of the Hue scene, always featured in guidebooks and run by friendly Mr Lac, a deaf mute. While you eat, he proudly fashions bottle openers from a length of wood and a bolt, signs them and gives them to his guests. The restaurant appears to be thriving, despite its neighbours – a bunch with an admirably entrepreneurial spirit, but slightly less than full respect for intellectual property. The surrounding restaurants bear names like Lac Thanh and Lac Tran and boast about their inclusion in the Lonely Planet and Rough Guide. I’m sure they lure in some gullible punters, but gratifyingly the original seemed to be the busiest.

<a href=”http://www.flickr.com/photos/46118215@N05/4483635711/” title=”P1020044 by Barry the Observer, on Flickr”><img src=”http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2697/4483635711_b9ba7a2da8.jpg” width=”500″ height=”375″ alt=”P1020044″ /></a>

One of Hue’s drawcards is the Forbidden Purple Palace, a walled palace within the citadel of Hue (and now neither for. Much was destroyed during the Vietnam war (and possibly also the war with the French? Don’t quote us on it) and by an earthquake, but there seemed to be a lot of work going into restoration.

<a href=”http://www.flickr.com/photos/46118215@N05/4484272632/” title=”P1020034 by Barry the Observer, on Flickr”><img src=”http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2758/4484272632_e40ebcc3ed.jpg” width=”500″ height=”375″ alt=”P1020034″ /></a>

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It’s beautiful, in quite a tame way. We wondered around for a few hours, enjoying the relative quiet.

The next afternoon we had a train to Hanoi to catch, but spent the morning travelling up the Perfume River to see a couple of tombs of the Nguyen emperors. They were designed by the emperors themselves during their own lifetimes (a bit egotistical, not to mention morbid) and were pretty impressive.

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Hi Mum, I’m in Saigon

Ho Chi Minh City, as it’s officially known, is still Saigon to everyone else. We’d been hearing very mixed views on the place and quite polarised opinions about Vietnam itself for a while, so I was a bit apprehensive about spending three weeks in a country I might hate.

What we did find in Saigon was a vibrant city that’s undergoing change at what seems to be a great rate. It’s a place where new money is unabashedly on display (to get rich is glorious, right?) but communist propaganda still encourages the masses to do their bit for Uncle Ho. It’s a town that (at least aesthetically) benefits from its French heritage with plenty of green spaces, boulevards and colonial architecture but, in the race to renew, property disputes are settled with a wrecking ball. Saigon is a bit mad, but a perfect first taste of Vietnam.

We arrived after a six hour bus ride from Pnomh Penh, which is starting to feel like a very short hop. John, an old family friend, had kindly agreed to put us up for a few days and it was not long after we arrived that we were sitting in his leafy courtyard unwinding with a bottle or two of wine and making our acquaintance with his kitten Claypot*. After more than six weeks away from home we were maybe a little too keen for feline company, but Claypot didn’t seem to mind the attention.


John, being The Man About Town, had an invitation to head down to the beach at a very flash new development in Ho Tram for a couple of days and we had been invited to tag along. Little did we know that this meant being initiated into expat culture – which as far as I can tell is a series of excuses for moderate to severe alcoholism. We did, however, manage to drag ourselves away from the martinis for long enough to go for a few swims and a tour of the local area in an old Minsk motorbike with sidecar – drawing plenty of stares and reactions from amused locals.


Once back in town we got the chance to wander round Saigon itself and found that there’s more to it than the touts and traffic that everyone talks about (whilst both are very thick on the ground, they’re easily managed if you keep your wits about you). Picking from the list of sights worth seeing, we visited the euphemistically named Reunification Palace and War Remnants Museum – the former being the South Vietnamese presidential palace (though a wonderful example of 1960s architecture) and the latter being a damning indictment of the “American War” interspersed with weapons and machinery used by US forces. Both sights offer a highly propagandised version of events, but that didn’t stop them being worthwhile, if only to help us appreciate the Vietnamese take on recent history.


Propaganda makes Alex a hungry boy and it was fortunate that Saigon had plenty to offer when it came to getting our chow on. Whether it was backstreet banh mi carts, 1000-seat BBQ restaurants or restaurants serving snails, we found plenty of fantastic and dirt cheap eats (OK,  the fertilised quail eggs were an exception. Avoid those). The highlight were these banh xeo from Banh Xeo 46a.


Crispy and delicious, served with more greens than we could identify, they’re produced by a couple of ladies working some ancient pans over open fires in a back alley outdoor kitchen. It’s places like this that I hope don’t get lost in Saigon’s race to reinvent itself.


*Claypot is named after the large terracotta urn where she was found. Her predecessor disappeared after a neighbourhood sweep resulted in a large proportion of cats gracing the plates of local restaurants.

Hi Mum, I’m in Siem Reap

We arrived in Siem Reap hot, smelly, grumpy and sick of travelling. Things quickly improved, however, once we arrived at our guesthouse. We were greeted with smiles, cold drinks and directed straight toward the pool by the staff (maybe they were being nice, or maybe we really smelled). My opinion of Siem Reap had just improved significantly. A quick jaunt to Pub Street for some fine Cambodian fare and a few 50 cent pots and we were fully returned to good spirits, but oh so ready for a decent night’s sleep.

The only apparent reason for going to Siem Reap for is the temples that lie in its surrounds, but we weren’t quite feeling up to that after our very long days of travelling. Instead we paid a visit to the excellent Angkor National Museum, which was the perfect primer on the religious, historical and architectural significance of the Angkor temples. We spent several hours taking in the immense collection of artefacts and slightly twee multimedia displays and by the time we reached the gift shop that marks the end of any self-respecting museum, were feeling very satisfied with ourselves for having done some learning. To reward ourselves, we decided to celebrate with a swim and some beers…


Unwisely having overindulged the night before, we headed out before dawn to the Angkor Wat complex to watch the sun rise over the temple itself. Despite the hangovers and the hundreds of tourists swarming over the best vantage points, it was still a breathtaking experience and if you ever get the opportunity to visit Angkor, you shouldn’t miss out on seeing it at sunrise.


We followed this up with an exploration of the main temples of Angkor Wat, Bayon and Angkor Thom and, as newly minted experts on Angkorean art and architecture, were able to better appreciate these monuments and the impressively intact carvings they contained. By the halfway point of our tour, I was a bit confused as to why the museum hadn’t mentioned Tomb Raider at all, as our guide had already been able to point out at least 75 locations where it had been filmed and Angelina Jolie was starting to take on as much significance as Shiva or Buddha…


Having started our sightseeing at 5.30, and the mercury having topped about 195 degrees, we called it a day by mid afternoon and took refuge in (yes, you guessed it) beer and our guesthouse’s pool.

During our second day of temple tourism we ventured a bit further afield to Banteay Srei, which is a less heavily touristed temple about 45 minutes outside of Siem Reap. It turned out to be well worth the visit as the carvings are just as impressive as those at Angkor and, with its smaller scale, was much more accessible. That said, we couldn’t resist going back to Angkor Wat to see it at sunset.


Forgoing our traditional celebration of beer and swimming that evening, we put on our dress thongs in order to dine at Meric, located at the very swanky Hotel de la Paix. We were there to sample Meric’s modern Khmer tasting menu which would hold up well against anything in Melbourne and put to rest much of what I’d heard and read in relation to Khmer food being rubbish.

All in all, we really enjoyed Siem Reap itself. It’s a bit out of the way to visit if you’re not going to do some temple-hopping, but turned out to be a surprisingly relaxing place to spend a few days.

Hi Mum, I’m in Vang Vieng

There are reams that have been written about Luang Prabang – extolling its French colonial charm, its languidness or any other of its many appealing attributes. When it comes to travel literature, Vang Vieng doesn’t fare quite as well – some of its more choice reviews include “shithole”, “dive” and “blight”.

The thoroughly underwhelming reputation of the place didn’t deter us from visiting, as there were only a couple of reasons for us being there. Firstly, to break up the trip between Luang Prabang and Vientiane (we were still scarred by our previous experience of Lao infrastructure). And more importantly, we were there to sample Vang Vieng’s biggest tourist drawcard – tubing.

Amanda and I arrived in town after a seven hour bus trip during which I think we travelled a grand total of about 14km and the most exciting event was having to rescue someone who’d gotten themselves trapped in the hobbit-sized toilet.

Our first impressions weren’t all that favourable. The place is dusty, under constant construction, full of wasted English backpackers and most of the bars play episodes of Friends on constant rotation. There are some limestone cliffs surrounding town, but we couldn’t see them due to the smoke and dust haze.

The next day we headed into town to start our day’s tubing. In Vang Vieng, tubing involves being dropped a few kilometres out of town, sitting in an inner tube on the slow moving river (marvelling at the limestone cliffs that were invisible the day before) and stopping every 100m or so to sit at bars and drink cocktails out of buckets while watching people launching themselves into the river off swings and slides of questionable construction.


A tough day out, eh?


After our fair share of beers and buckets, we decided to paddle our way back into town. This was in spite of (or maybe to spite) the legion of tuk tuk drivers offering to drive us back to town. Exercising our best alcohol-powered better judgement we were convinced were trying to scam us.

Maybe the river was flowing a bit too slowly or maybe we were feeling a little too relaxed, but we only just made it back to town in time to return our tubes (having taken six hours to navigate four kilometres of river). Maybe those tuk tuk drivers weren’t trying to scam us after all…

That night we managed to find a bar that showed Family Guy instead of Friends and settled in for a few rounds of Beer Lao. On reflection, maybe Vang Vieng isn’t quite the hole that many have made it out to be. It’s a town that’s built on hedonism and, no matter what your opinion of Vang Vieng, it would be a shame to see it denigrated by puritanical ideas of what tourist destinations should be.



Well, some prick has written a virus that’s infected the memory card on our camera… For the moment this means that we can’t upload a whole lot of pictures that we’d like to share.

Hopefully this issue gets resolved soon and, in the meantime, the author of the virus contracts a nasty case of genital herpes.

Hi Mum, I’m in Luang Prabang

If you just spent 2 slightly hellish days getting to a destination, you couldn’t do much better than have that destination be Luang Prabang. Set on the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Ou rivers, it’s an elegant, laid-back sort of place, with plenty of reminders of its French colonial history.

Things you can do in LP:
1. Get up to the sound of drums at dawn and stumble onto your guesthouse balcony to watch the monks from the various wats make their procession through town, collecting alms in the form of sticky rice.

2. Watch the local women try to sell sticky rice to foreigners so they can offer it to the monks, without revealing that the monks will not eat tainted offerings.

3. Visit Tamarind, a restaurant and cooking school run by Joy, a local man, and Caroline, his Aussie wife. Learn heaps about local food (surprisingly different from Thai and Vietnamese food). Be amazed by the utterly repellant Lao fish sauce (recipe: take whole fish. Place in water. Add salt, galangal and maybe garlic. Leave to ferment (ie. rot). Eat.) Prepare some great food in an idyllic setting. Fall in love with Lao beer snacks – dried, fried mushroom shreds flavoured with kaffir lime, chili and garlic.

4. Bump into some old uni friends that you just missed in Singapore (hey, Warren and Celia). Spend a great evening with them, drinking cheap cocktails in a secluded bar on the other side of the river, accessible only via rickety bamboo bridge, and eating more great food.

5. Visit the Kuang Si waterfall, a series of cascades about an hour out of town that look like they were deliberately designed by someone working for Disneyland or similar (this is actually a compliment). Swim in the gorgeous aqua water and wonder again why it is you don’t live in Luang Prabang.

6. Eat a gourmet French meal at L√Člephant, which but for the heat, the tiny geckos running around on the awning and the miniscule price, could be anywhere in France.